The birthplace of writing in Uruk En route to Nasiriyah we stopped at Uruk – the most important archaeological site in Mesopotamia, a Sumerian city state founded 7000 years ago. There is not much to see as most of the city hasn’t yet been excavated (though the nazis did come in the 30s to build […]
Iraq 3 – Baking in Basra Read More »
Baghdad’s last supper We went traditional on our last night in Baghdad and went for river fish (mazgouf) at Abu Nawas. The fish is cut in half and then barbecued and served with bread and vegetables. One fish was enough for three – delicious. Then we wandered back the 3km through town. Evening is the
Iraq 2 – Holier than thou in Karbala and Najaf Read More »
Iraq is without question, one of the most fascinating lands in our crazy world – home to the mythical Tower of Babel, the Garden of Eden and the hanging gardens of Babylon. Also the birthplace of Arab nationalism, millions of Kurds, and Saddam Hussein. The recent war against Isis has largely been won, and after
Iraq part 1 – having a blast in Baghdad Read More »
The weather forecast was pretty ropey and the official site said most of the paths I wanted to do were closed. But nonetheless I headed to Gatwick for an early flight to Funchal. The plane’s second engine wouldn’t start so we returned to the stand from the runway. And then there was an altercation with
Mountains in Madeira Read More »
I missed a few sections of the GR221 last time I was in Mallorca, and there was a few ridgelines I wanted to try, so I am heading back for a quick weekend hiking break. My buddy Sam is coming along too. Day 1 – circular ridge route from Soller – 20km, 1200m of ascent
Return to Mallorca Read More »
Fuerteventura is the last of the Canary Islands on my list to do the cross island GR131 trail. I did my homework, and most hikers who blog about the route detested significant chunks of this walk – as it goes on tarmac through resorts. Doing a bit more homework yielded some excellent alternative routes around
Finishing the GR131 in Fuerteventura Read More »
El Hierro is hard to get to – its the last Canary Island before the Americas, Columbus stopped for 17 days on the way apparently (back when El Hierro was the outer reaches of the western world), and El Hierro is the second smallest of the 8 islands. El Hierro – like 6 of the
Escaping to El Hierro Read More »
Aaaaah Covid, you have taught me to be infinitely flexible, responsive and on my toes when it comes to holiday plans. A positive covid test for my husband scuppered our Jordan holiday plans, and it didn’t make sense to go to Jordan by myself (as I had been before). Instead, with 48 hours to go
Trails in Tenerife 2022 Read More »