The Pyrenees always calls me back. I loved doing the whole of the HRP (haute route Pyrenees – 750km coast to coast) last year and my wanderings the year before. This year I am taking a slightly loop de loop approach, starting in Ax les thermes, heading east for a bit to do the Tour de Perics, then heading west again taking in a lot of the GR11, some revisits of sections of the HRP, and taking in the Carros de Foc. I have no real plan and no real end date. Life is bliss.
Day 0 -8km, 980m ascent – pitched at the end of etang naguiles
I arrived in ax les thermes on the train from Toulouse (two hours, 10 euros if you buy on advance) and then took a one euro shuttle up the valley to Orlu. I started walking at three with the goal to get to the lake to camp – 1000metres of ascent with a very full pack. The track was well benched and under the tree line for the first two hours then it came out in the mist to an EDF cabin and some ruins of mining equipment. It was a nice stroll around the lake and then I found a tiny spot with space to pitch a tent with a nice view of the lake. Dinner and an early night
Day 1 bivouac near etang naguilles to bivouac near refuge camporells, a huge storm – 16.6km, 1300m of ascent
It was a glorious morning. I woke up at 6 with the light, had coffee packed up and was on the move by 7. My pack is heavy as I have brought a lot of food and all my luxuries so I am slow going on the ascent. Kept it steady and was over the top and into the sunshine by around 8. The descent to refuge en beys was through the mist which persisted most of the day and it was only when climbing past 2300m that is saw the sun again
I stopped around 11 for breakfast at a little cabin and then continued plodding up the hill to the puig de terrers. Around 1.30 it was a little gloomy and I was about 50m from the top of a 1300m ascent day. A warm gentle rain started plopping. No bother I thought. Then I remembered I was in the Pyrenees. Lo and behold 2 mins later I was getting zinged with rock hard hail. The thunder came and went and the hail persisted, so I booked it down the hill to the refuge camporells to take cover. Just after I got in we had golf ball sized hail smacking everything in its path and the entire area was completely covered in hail . I took cover had a chocolate chaud and a blueberry tart and hoped to wait out the weather –
I didn’t think my ultralight tent would be bomb proof against this hail. I waited until 5pm it was still bucketing down but I was cold and fed up with being around people so I headed into the rain and pitched my tent on the hail (which turns out was mostly on cow shit) under a tree. I was wet, most of my stuff was wet but I got in my dry clothes and in my sleeping bag, had a hot dinner and went to sleep after spending two hours listening to the distance between the thunder and the lightening. I love a warm Pyrenean welcome 🙂
Day 2 – 26.5k refuge camporells to a bivouac 1km east of refuge bessines, 1200m of ascent
I woke up damp on soggy ground and surrounded by cow poo. The weather forecast was for sun so I figured I could dry my stuff in the evening. I headed down past some lovely lake views for the 10k, two and a bit hour stroll to bouillouse where I knew from past experience I could get a 9 euro buffet breakfast which more than paid for itself with the coffees I drank
I left breakfast at 10.30 and then headed to the lac massif de Carlit and then took a detour over to the coma de la grava valley (which was fine on the way up but hairy as hell scree on the way down, so I can see why that wasn’t the official route. Then it was a lovely slow stroll to the Puig de la grava at 2426m, down the other side to the lake lanoux and another slow grunt up to Coll de coma d’anyell, unfortunately passing two grumpy patou (Pyrenean sheep dogs who protect flocks and are quite aggressive).
Over the Coll I tried to find a flat tent pitch near a tiny lake but had to continue for about 2km down the boulders to find a flat dry bit next to a stream where I arrived around 5pm. I dried out everything in my pack and admired my sun burn
Day 3 – to a glorious pitch next to an unnamed tarn 2km east of refuge rulhe. 1700m of ascent, 20km
I woke up and rolled down the valley to refuge bessines – every nook and cranny had a tent pitched so I was glad I had pitched where I stayed (French hikers congregate in tents around the refuges so they can eat there – I would rather carry my food)
It was supposed to be a 11k descent to merens la val, so I my lungs were a bit surprised by the bonus 300m climb up the Porte de bessines before commencing the 1400m descent – glorious lakes, a lovely river and even a hot spring
I got to ‘town’ merens la val – which has one auberge – at 11 and persuaded them to give me meat and cheese and coffee. And then I began a brutal 1400m climb out of town in the midday heat. It was tough and I stuck my head in every stream I passed and had to have a word with myself a couple of times. I did get a swim after the first 600m but the cooling effects didn’t last long
The climb was long but at least grassy (up a hill called the pyramid of grass), and then followed some nice hopping across a boulder field. I reached a lovely tarn at 17.15 which my guidebook had said had one flat spot for a tent and promptly baggsed it. I had a swim and a good dinner. I was heartened to see a 20 year old couple who walked out of merens la val at the same time as me (around noon) arrive 90 minutes after me, made me feel less old and crusty. After they left I had the tarn to myself, – glorious
Two different weather apps predicting storms – one says at 2pm one says at 9pm. Not helpful, so I have a plan to be near a shelter by 2pm and will see how the skies look
Day 4 – to El Serrat – 1600m of ascent, 25km, lots of vomiting
The confusing weather forecast weren’t helpful in planning the day but i really don’t want to be on a high ridge on a storm. the books suggested it was a 11-12 hour hike to El Serrat. Between the half way point of comms de Jan there was no shelter. So I decided to hike to comms de Jan and see how I felt
The morning was lovely, an hour to Refugio rulhe then a lovely stroll around a balcony to two border lakes of etangs fontargente which had lovely pitch spots and only two tents. I hiked up the hill and over the pass pont fontargente into Andorra as the sun heated up, heading down to the valley , and grunted up the hill to etang cabana sourda – a lovely lake to have lunch
Fed, I grunted up another steep climb very slowly (but still overtook three people) to go over Salamander pass at 2679m and then down to comms de Jan hut which was rammed with through hikers and crowded with Spanish day walkers. I got there at 13.30 and my legs were feeling ok, the sky was clear and I didn’t like the crowds so decided to keep going
The next 600m up to Pic de Serrere passed some lovely lakes and was a hot solid wheezy climb. I got to the top at 15.45, and reckoned I would easily make it to El Serrat and there was signal at the pass so I booked a hotel.
After that it was all downhill, literally and figuratively. It was a hot and sweaty 7km hike that descended 1200m. My stomach felt quite ropey all of a sudden, I vomited beside the trail after about 2 km, and then 4 more times on the way down. It was a slow and blech descent. I got to the hotel around 18.30, and was confident a Coca Cola might fix me, I got one while checking in and after two sips had to vomit again (poor check in guy didn’t know what to do). Blech. Definitely food poisoning. I ordered four cokes (good rehydration), two bananas and some yogurt. I vomited several more times that evening but at least I got a shower. No idea what it was as have been filtering water but it definitely felt like food poisoning of some sort. I decided to take a rest day in El Serrat the next day to see if I could get some food in.
Day 5 – 15km and 1100m of ascent to Pla de boet
After a rest day, i took it easy in the morning as still really haven’t been able to keep any food in, and didn’t get started until 10. I skipped the dullest bit of the road walk by hitching the first 5km from El Serrat (I always get picked up pretty quickly and always amused that the drivers always ask if I think hitching is dangerous :-)).
Then it was a nice solid grunt up 300m of ascent to the ski station (which I could have taken two cable cars too but that felt like cheating). I had an Aquarius and a Coke and then headed up the next 300m of ascent to port de rat enjoying the breeze. The view was stunning and it was a lovely stroll down the other side (except when I forgot to watch my feet and fell on my knee). Then a sold balcony path around the mountain to get to the lovely Étangs soucaranne. This lake at 2200m has some of the best bivouac pitches in the Pyrenees but it was only 3pm and there was a thunderstorm forecast so I decided to keep strolling
Another 300m grunt up to port de boet where I almost got blown off my feet at the summit. And then a 700m 3k descent through lots of cursed cows to reach the Pla de boet. I am not entirely sure national park rules allow pitching here but I found a flat spot in the trees between two Germans about 20m on one side and a very chubby French dude I had met a few days earlier who was blissfully naked sunbathing on the other side. Hopefully the rangers don’t come and fine us (I do enjoy the fine line between hiking and being a hobo).
Day 6 – Pla de boet to baborte lake down to Boavi – 15km 900m of ascent
Couldn’t quite bend my knee this morning from yesterday’s fall and my stomach had kicked madly all night. Fingers crossed I can eat today I will figure out if I am hungry
I packed up and was moving by 7.45, a lovely climb up a foresty hill to the lakes at baborte. One of my fave places in the Pyrenees provided it isn’t overrun with large groups of loud Spaniards (which I had last year when they all pitched camp on top of me). This year I had 30 scouts, all of whom I overtook on the way up, very cute. Can’t believe there are adults who would willingly take that many kids camping
I enjoyed breakfast in the peace and quiet by the lake before they caught up with me and then I meandered up to the Col de sellente. From 2500m was a long and hot 1000m descent to the flats of Boavi where there is a lovely river and lots of holiday makers sun bathing.
The last stretch down to tavascan was a dusty 5k dirt road walk and I did 1k until a nice couple drove by and gave me a lift when I stuck my thumb out. (I do think I am one of the oldest hitchhikers I know)
I got to tavascan and was starving so had a robust lunch and an icecream under close observation by the huge hotel dog. The hotel had a room left – 60 euros for bed dinner and breakfast. Not the cleanest room I’ve ever been in but the shower was excellent. Feeling much better. A nap, some clothes washing and emails and then a half pension dinner.
Day 7 – a long hot sweltering 25km with 1800m of ascent fuelled by Fanta limon
From tavascan I was doing two stages in one day on the GR11 to get to gingueta. The guide book said it would take 10 hours. The weather forecast was for thirty degrees and this route didn’t have the benefit of being high, and therefore cooler. I didn’t get away until 8 as breakfast wasn’t served until 7.30, and my stomach was not entirely happy with my dinner choices so it was slow going .
The first stage was 12k to estaon was on lovely switched back paths but entirely without shade for an 850m ascent to the coll de jou . It was sweltering and I overheated. Descending down the other side to the valley there was a stream so I took my shoes off and submerged myself fully clothed. That worked wonders to restore the core temperature. The rest of the stroll to estaon was in the trees but after another 3k there was a gloriously large pool in the river so I had another dip much to the amusement of some hikers going by. It got to estaon and sat in the shade, and drank a Coke and two Fanta limons (to add to the two litres of water and 1 litre of Spanish Gatorade I drank en route). My stomach is not liking any food and I am super dehydrated so Coke it is.
I gossiped about gear with hikers for half an hour and then hoisted the pack for another 1000m of descent up to lo calbo, loaded with 3kg of water for the route as there was none for the next 11k. I let myself sit in the shade and drink half a litre every 250m of ascent and took it very easy. And eventually made it to the top, very happy for the whiff of breezes as they came. But it was slow slow going.
The descent down to dorve and on to Guingueta was shaded at first and then was in full sun. The breezes as i got lower got less like a breeze and more like the fan in an oven making sure i was properly baked all way around. I eventually hit gingueta at six – it wasn’t fast but i got there. From Guingueta the next stage was a 10km road walk to Espot, so i hitched a ride up instead and got a hotel room and a steak (which was delicious going in but didn’t last long in my stomach which is absolutely still rebelling)
Day 8 – Carros de Foc to just past colomina , sweltering heat and thunderstorms – 16k 1200m of ascent
I avoided the 6km 700m of ascent road walk by shelling out 6 euros for the tourist landrover taxi from Espot to St Maurici – well worth the investment to get higher before the heat of the day and not walk on road.
The trail started with a lovely stroll up to Collada de Monastero up a shaded valley with a lovely stream for most of the walk then a bit of boulder and scree to get to 2750m. Wandering down the other side the lake views which would endure for the rest of the day started, passing Peguera, llastra, negre and cap de port (my fave) before another short climb to Collada de Saburo.
Descending the other side there was the estany de saburo – a weirdly empty reservoir – which apparently has never served much of a purpose. The well engineered paths (from the days of building the damns for most of these lakes) continued past estany de mar and colomina where I stopped for a cup of tea just as the rain starting plopping down. Conveniently the rain stopped just as I started walking again. 🙂
Leaving Colomina it was hot!!!! And then the thunder started. I was aiming for a rock shelter described in the guide as a mountain Bothy, and after three km I arrived, about five minutes after the hail and bucketing rain started.
I was so happy to get into the mountain Bothy, and be dry and sheltered. Or at least I was happy until 8 very loud Catalan guys showed up with no tents and there went my quiet Bothy evening. I waited an hour for the rain to abate and then pitched my tent under a large rock for shelter. I probably should have waited until 8pm when it is permissible to put a tent up, but I was past caring. I had three cups of tea and some supper and an early night, although the Catalans were audible until about 11pm and then weirdly someone was wandering past my tent at midnight with a torch.
Day 9 – 15k and 1200m of ascent to a bivouac just past the Coll de contraix boulderfield – boulders as big as damn buses
I got up at six as figured it might be a long day, and technically I was aiming to get all the way through the official national park (as bivouacking is only technically permissible in the periphery areas).
The day started off brilliantly, cool and clear with some lovely views of more lakes, and then a lovely balcony trail and easy switchbacked descent down to estany long. I arrived around 10.30 and had breakfast by the stream with the cows
Then it was an 800m climb to the Coll de contraix. The way markings were sparse but the route easy to find. I paused half way up for a dunk in a lovely bend in the river. Arriving at the lake contraix, I saw the Col on the other side, and wasn’t looking forward to the steep scree slope. But first, a good 30 mins of boulder hopping to get to the base of the scree and then grunt my way up to the col. just below the col I met a large family struggling on the way down, and their seven year old assured me the other side was much much more difficult – as it turns out, a very dire and accurate prediction
At the col, I looked down the other side and couldn’t see any obvious path down the steep scree (which was more dust than scree). I inched my way down the other side, marvelling that those kids had even managed to get up this bit (the difference for everyone else I saw is that they had tiny day packs going from Refugio to Refugio and I was carrying a full 14kg of camping gear and food). After about 20 mins, relieved to be off the scree, I realised that that I had at least 1k of huge boulder fields to navigate with limited way markings. On this side some of the boulders were bigger than London buses. I was sliding down them on my bum, having to backtrack frequently when I got to a dead end (a drop too big for me to contemplate trying to get down), and then to make things better the thunder started. Shit! I got about 3/4 of the way through before I reached a water source under the rocks and just as the rain started plopping so I found shelter under a rock overhang and made a cup of tea, trying to stay dry. I sat out the worst of the storm for an hour with my butt wedged in the rock, as the hail came down and the lightening lit up the sky. At this point I was at least four hours from clearing the park boundaries and it was 4pm and I was knackered. So when the rain finally abated I made for a lake about 400m a little up and off the trail to hopefully find a flat place to pitch. Not technically legal, but I would have rather paid the fine than kept walking, I was bouldered out. Success! One flat spot next to the lake, and unlikely to be discovered by anyone. I pitched the tent, tried to eat , drank lots of hot chocolate and was asleep by 8pm
Day 10 – 12k to arties with a hitch to vielha
I woke to a lovely clear sky and a breeze, packed up and started wandering down the valley to Ventosa around 7.30am. After about 30mins I started seeing the hikers coming up from the refuge and checking out their physical condition did wonder how some of them would make it through the boulders and over the col – although it is probably easier from this direction (I always find up easier than down).
After the refuge at ventosa it was a gentle meander through lakes for a couple of hours, passing several of my favourite lakes from earlier Pyrénées hikes to arrive at Refugio Renclusa. I celebrated with a sandwich and two soft drinks (after waiting for the helicopter to do its daily delivery of wine and beer). The drink cans are 4 euros, but unsurprising given they are choppered in. I needed to head to town to get food so booked a hotel in Vielha and headed down the valley to Arties hoping for a full carpark to ensure the best chances of a good hitch into town. Sadly there were only four cars at the top carpark so probably an 8k road walk was in store. Luckily after 3k, two lovely Spaniards and their dog drove past and they squished me in the back of their two seater 4×4 with the dog and dropped me in Vielha!!!! (I do love hitching in the mountains, it never takes me long to get a ride). I celebrated with drinking 4 litres of Vichy Catalan and Aquarius (am still severely dehydrated from the food poisoning).
I had a big late lunch as another storm rolled down the valley. and then I checked out the weather forecast. There are huge thunderstorms warnings for the next three to four days so I definitely shouldn’t be heading back up (dangerous as no visibility and it isn’t safe to be exposed with so much lightening). Hmmmmm. I didn’t really fancy sitting in vielha for four days until the weather cleared, and my lovely hubby is in our French house, a mere four hours from Vielha. That’s that universe making a plan for me. So I had a burger and icecream for dinner, and a big nights sleep and then headed north
A slightly shorter Pyrenean adventure this year, but lovely to spend more time in the Perics and the Aiguestortes. I will be back probably next year for a revisit of the Ordesa .
Vielha August 13, 2024
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