Mooching in Mexico

Disclaimer – mostly I only write blogs on my trips if they are off the beaten path and places most won’t know so much about. HOWEVER, I have realised that my memory is increasingly crap, so writing the blog really helps me remember what I did……, so a blog it is

So we are off to Mexico! I have been several times for work, but hubby has never been. He has now been to over 100 countries but has two big ‘blank’ spots on his ‘visited’ map of the world that he wants to check off – Mexico and Canada – so here we are. We got very cheap flights to Cancun, though I was astounded by how expensive the hotels were over the Christmas period. We both figured Cancun and the entire coast line probably wasn’t going to be our thing, but were genuinely underprepared for how many tourists visited and all the tackiness that came with them. Apparently 6 million people (largely Americans) come to the state of Quintana Roo and through Cancun airport every year – the airport was bonkers, with arrival being a total moshpit (tip to the impatient, ignore the queues at immigration, walk all the way around to the left and go through the e gates – they work for EU/UK passports too).

We had found a design hotel in Tulum to chill out for four nights, avoiding the beach and aiming for maximum relaxation interspersed with some really good tacos. Hotel Bardo delivered on the relaxation and the local stands delivered on the tacos. Nothing like staying in a very expensive hotel and going to the taco stand up the road for al pastor tacos and horchata for 25 pesos. I wouldn’t choose to visit Tulum or any of the surrounding areas again, super expensive (US pricing for everything), lots of aggressive demands for tips (our waiters at the hotel asked for a cash tip of 20% after every meal), and it just didn’t feel like Mexico. We were also most amused to go to the pharmacy (for insect repellent) and be offered cut priced drugs of every type – Ritalin, valium, you name it.

Tulum

We did one touristy thing in Tulum, visiting the ruins. It really wasn’t worth it, compared to other sites on the peninsular. It was also heaving with shops. We arrived just in time for opening, and it was relatively calm, and we had walked around all the ruins within an hour. The beach where apparently you could swim had been closed off. We left just as the hordes arrived.

Coba

After three days of basically doing nothing, we were off to Chichen Itza (staying close to the site so we could get in early). En route is a ‘less visited’ set of ruins called Coba. These were quite lovely, most of the tourists got a cycle cab just to the main pyramid and back again. We walked the site (it was only about a 4km walk in total, so under an hour) so we also got to see the Group Macanxoc ruins, which the main groups and cycle taxis missed. There was nothing particularly incredible to see but it was a nice (albeit muggy) stroll. We then headed into Piste for Panuchos with Pibil from a less than clean stand on the main strip – delicious. We stayed in a lovely property – the Hacienda Chichen – with excellent gardens, but some really odd rules (including a threat to fine us $50 if they found any evidence of us bringing in outside snacks, and to remove our clothes without notice if we hung them on our terrace). Delightful. It was Christmas Day, so we were gouged $130 each for the ‘Christmas dinner’ which was the only thing they offered. Soup, shrimp on tortilla and chocolate cake – all perfectly fine but definitely not worth that price.

Chichen itza

We had heard the stories about how many people visited Chichen Itza – the most visited site in Mexico (apparently one day there were 20,000 people there). We arrived 15 minutes before opening and got a carpark in the official site, but the queues were already forming. Once we got in at 8.10, the site was big enough to spread out and avoid the tourists. For the two hours we were there, there were more vendors than tourists (there were hundreds of vendors lining every walkway) – each vendor setting up their merchandise every day – it was fascinating, I wondered how much rent they paid and what the difference in rent cost was between the hot spots by the main pyramid and the less well trodden sites. We enjoyed the walk around and thought the main pyramid and the caracol were quite wonderful. The areas which the guides didn’t visit (e.g behind the Mil Columnas) were lovely and quiet. By the end though, nearing 10 am, there were too many loud tour guides disturbing the peace so we managed to weave through the encroaching hordes to get to the exit. There was a 30 woman queue to get to the door of the sole set of restrooms (I held on), and by this time the carpark was entirely full, and there was an unmoving queue of cars, shuttle vans and tours buses for the 1km back to the main road. It was bonkers. I definitely would not have wanted to be there any later.

We headed back to Piste for woefully bad huevos rancheros, and then back to our hotel to pick up our bags and then headed into Merida

The vendors literally had every souvenirs imaginable

Mérida

Merida is a lovely town, the further I get from Quintana Roo the more I like Mexico. We headed into town strolling down the impressive Paseo Montejo, with lots of beautiful (and quite Parisian) buildings and then stopped for a margarita at the Frida Kahlo bar (she is everywhere in Mexico) to get out of a sudden downpour. We meandered around the old town enjoying the vibe and then finally managed to secure a table at the local Chaya Maya – where we over ate more tortillas, excellent frijoles, and had the local specialities of black turkey, pumpkin turkey, stuffed cheese and slow cooked pork, followed by rice pudding and preserved fruit. And then we rolled slowly back to our hotel.

We had nothing on the plan for day 2, intentionally, apart from a wander. So we started the day with coffee and pudim at Maria & Montejo (best coffee so far). We then meandered around all of the churches and the nice buildings in the old town. The highlight was the Museo Casa Montejo – free and lovely. We then wandered over to the municipal market which was steaming in the heat. WE had a torta with pastor while being deafened by a crooning 70 year old in tight pants and sequins but wisely avoided all the cooked shellfish on offer which was unrefrigerated. We stopped again for some salutes and cold drinks at Chaya Maya. And then again at the excellent colon sorbeteria for peach and strawberry sorbet. By this time it was 2pm, sweltering, and the heat was rising off the pavement. We wisely retreated for a nap and to read for the afternoon.

We decided to skip tacos for the evening, and treated ourselves to steak, wine and chips at 130 degrees – it was a USD$100 piece of rib eye (one of the cheapest options for 29 ounces) but it was absolutely delicious, although we had to take a doggy back home.

Uxmal

After a lie in, and a leisurely breakfast (an epic cheese toasty and two flat whites) at the wonderful Maria & Montego we headed out of town to drive the Ruth Puuc. Uxmal was as organised as every other tourist site so far – requiring two tickets but very limited direction or signage about where or how. Luckily hubby and I are very good at ‘queueing’ like the French and with some creative manouvering and splitting up we managed to secure our tickets in 8 minutes. The first pyramid (Andino) was lovely with curved sides (named for a magician). We made our way around the site hopping from shaded spot to shaded spot – it was over thirty degrees, muggy and almost everyone we saw had sweat dripping down their backs. It was well worth the visit with the carvings on the Palacio de Gobernadora and the Nuns quadrangle really stunning.

Kabah

About 15 minutes south of Uxmal is the much quieter and more delightful Kabah – famous for 300 masks of the rain god, and two of the few mayan 3D representations of humans. We were most amused to see two American tourists who decided the stairs were too much to climb to ‘see the shit’ at the top (max 20 stairs). They missed out. It was sweltering and we were pretty pleased to get back in the car for the mooch back to Merida to return our rental car and have Kibis (a Yucatan inspired version of Lebanese Kebbe) and Longaniza (like chorizo) with a margarita at the airport before our evening flight to the Chiapas.

Chamula and Zinacantan

We arrived late into San Cristobal de las Casa and were delighted to fall into the most comfy bed ever in the owners suite at Juan de Taller hotel in the historic centre. The next morning we got up early-ish to head to Chamula for the Sunday market. Chamula is a fiercely independent town (with their own police force – not the federal police) who practice their own syncretic traditions and don’t love outsiders. We visited the church (they sell tickets) and saw at least six chickens sacrificed (their necks get wrung and they die pretty slowly), lots of pox burnt on the floor and more chances than I am used to. We wandered around the market, but didn’t take any photos, as the locals are really not keen on having their photos taken (apparently tourists have been mobbed before). But have borrowed a picture from a website of the wonderful local dress the ladies wear – shaggy black skirts with embroidered blouses.

We did pop to the local cemetery – quite unusual, no coffins ever used and family members buried on top of each other

Next up Zinacantan – a much cheerier village with no chickens being sacrificed, and all the locals (including the men) in wonderful shades of purple and mauve with embroidered flowers.

San Cristóbal

We then headed back to San Cristobal for coffee and lots of wandering. San Cristobal is a famous town with digital nomads, who come or a few weeks and end up staying for months. After three days of blissful wandering, eating excellent food and loving the locals, I can see why. I would be so delighted to stay for months.

There is nothing and everything to do here. The churches, and there are many, are lovely. Our favourite thing was that all of the churches seemed to be adorned with horrendous LED lights and an obligatory tinny tune machine that was belting out jingle bells and silent night. Terrible!!! But apart from that the churches were delightful and very well attended. The streets were wonderful to walk up and down, and you could walk for days. Most importantly the food and the coffee were wonderful. Fave coffee places were Libre and Cafe Frontera. Best place to eat breakfast

Part of the reason we loved this town so much is we stayed at Taller de Juan in the owners suite – a huge room with a record player and an entire wall of glass down one side. It was quiet and blissfully relaxing. I would move in tomorrow.

We whiled away four full days in town, eating, walking and shopping. Favourite place to shop was https://elcaminodelosaltos.com/ a collaboration between 160 indigenous women weavers and a French designer. the markets are also worth checking out – especially the mercado municipal. My favourite intersection was ‘Insurgentes’ and ‘Ninos Heroes’ (Child Heros). My favourite icecream shop was Casita Demerera (eat in and play with the cats)

We also loved all the graffiti, much of which is in support of indigenous rights and the Zapatista movement (who control the Chiapas).

Mexico City

CDMX is my favourite city in Latin America, I love it. Excellent food, loads of amazing museums, lots of greenery and lots to do. We had a glorious three days in town, eating great meals at La Docena, Maximo and Rosetta (Pujol was sadly closed for the holidays). We wandered at least 20,000 steps a day, lots of lovely quirky shops in Polanco and La Roma. Stayed at the Intercontinental which is fine but very well located.

Tamayo

The Tamayo museum is small but perfectly formed, and had some excellent exhibitions when we visited,

Museo Arte moderno

one of my favourite global museums, fantastic exhibits and a lovely sculpture garden, and a beautiful piece of architecture. Highly recommended

Jumex and Soumayo

the Jumex is a lovely private free museum, worth a visit. and the Soumayo next door is a stunning shiny piece of architecture

Teotihuacan

We got an uber out to the pyramids before 7 and arrived in time for opening at 8am – there were hardly any people. The highlight of the morning was actually watching the hot air balloons float around the pyramids. It is definitely worth a visit – the Quetzalcoatl Temple has some fantastic carvings and the Temple of the Moon is wonderful in the morning light. We left around 10am as the buses were showing up, and it took a full 90 minutes to get back through Mexico City’s traffic

Books

One of the greatest joys of my historical backpacking days was reading. I used to pack an 80 litre backpack with 20-30 library books. With social media and all the internet access, I have let that hobby slip. I was determined to reset this holiday and I managed to read 14 novels – some better than others. Delightful.